It might not be obvious, but for some winemakers, the lunar phases play a huge role in their winemaking. This is just one element of a practice known as biodynamics; the organic farming movement that was created over 100 years ago and has had a growing following ever since. The premise of it is simple: the land, animals, soil, and plants all play a part in sustaining one another and our goal is to help sustain and balance them. This has led to interesting practices for winemakers, including the use of cow horns to regulate the soil and following lunar and solar cycles to cultivate their vines.
The Origins of Biodynamics
According to the Biodynamic Association, biodynamic farms and gardens are an, “integrated, whole, living organism” upheld by practitioners that, “listen to the land, to sense what may want to emerge through it, and to develop and evolve their farm as a unique individuality.”
In 1924, Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner began holding agricultural courses for farmers, describing soil as the digestive organ of plants and claiming that by nourishing the soil, you nourish the plant.
Steiner was one of the first figures to warn that widespread use of chemical fertilizers would lead to a decline in soil, plant, and animal health. Because of this, he held the idea that farms are self-sustaining organisms and championed the importance of integrating crops and livestock as a closed-loop system for fertilization and building the land’s immune system. His beliefs also incorporated cosmic and earthly influences, stating that some farming practices should only occur during certain lunar cycles and seasons.
Following his lectures, farmers began to test Steiner’s approach and found that this sustainable, healthy, non-chemical approach was actually benefiting their farms. This led biodynamics to become the first holistic farming movement, predating organic farming by about 20 years.
Biodynamics takes a drastically different approach compared to modern farming, where crops and livestock are typically separated with most farms only caring for one or the other. In the case of biodynamics, integrating livestock such as cows, ducks (and often in the case of wine) sheep and goats are vital to sustain the land and create a fertile environment for crops.
But, what makes biodynamics particularly stand out is its use of lunar and planetary cycles. The biodynamic calendar, founded by gardener Maria Thun in the 1960s, consists of four important cycles that are vital to the growth and care of plants. The root, leaf, flower, and fruit days are related to the elements of earth, water, air, and fire which represent which time frame is best suited for an agricultural task. These days are decided based on the 28-day lunar cycle, which influences the movement of water and subsequently where sap is in the plant.
Biodynamics In Winemaking
Across the world, only a little over 600 wineries are certified Demeter Biodynamic as of 2018. Though they are slowly expanding, as the most recent data from 2020-2021 showed that biodynamic wineries made up 21,967 acres of vineyards compared to 20,254 in 2018.
For winemakers, the root, leaf, flower, and fruit days play a vital role in both the winemaking process as well as aiding in creating the best wine experience. Root days are best for pruning, plowing, and any other tasks related to the root systems in the vineyard, although it’s considered the worst day to taste any wines. Leaf days are ideal for watering, but drinking a bottle may bring up unripe flavors. Flower days are also good for pruning and trimming and are shown to boast the flavor of aromatic white wines. Fruit days, which are considerably the best day for winemakers, are the best for harvesting and drinking.
Biodynamic winemakers are also known for taking part in the sometimes questionable fertilization process required for their vineyards called cow horn manure or preparation 500. The process involves stuffing cow horns with manure compost and burying them in the ground throughout the winter months. Afterwards, the stuffed manure is excavated and spread throughout the vineyard twice a year in autumn and spring. According to the Biodynamie Services, this process helps structure the soil, stimulate microbes, regulate the soil’s pH balance, and stimulate root development, among other things.
It While there isn’t any definite proof that these biodynamic processes improve the taste of wine, many biodynamic winemakers believe that they bring out the true terrier of a region, thus enhancing the taste. And, according to a 2023 Wine Searcher article, ratings across Robert Parker, Wine Enthusiast, and Wine Spectator are higher for organic wines than non-organic.
So while these practices may seem odd, you’ll know your wine was made like no other.
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